Have you ever looked at peoples faces when they are riding roller coasters? Usually a hilarious variety ranging from thrilled glee to horrified fear. Well this was Nick and I as we arrived in Naples. In some rare and strange twist it was me that was joyfully enamored by the bustling city. Nick saw the wild dogs, heard the roar of the city, shouts and bibs as our cabbie gave the devil hand and thwacked the neighboring cab as we were in traffic. I immediately loved it and Nick, not so much. Quickly I dragged him onto my bandwagon by expressing the thrill and excitement- the rawness- we were experiencing and before we knew it we were barreling through the streets into the Spanish quarter, the only quarter the travel blogs advised against (which is stupid, it’s not dodgy at all) in quest of dinner at one of the most Naples-y restaurants ever – Trattoria di Nennella. I had read about this place and couldn’t contain my excitement. As you walk in it is total chaos. Almost like a bustling ny deli? Yelling and music and dancing in between tightly packed picnic benches packed with people. The sensory overload was hitting it’s peak and Nick still looked as if he had been struck – the bustle of this place was enough to bring me to his level and we both fell into a kind of silent reverie as we sat and just watched.

I had been most excited about trying this dish I had read about Pasta e Patate e Provola – the whole smokey provolone thing was totally new to me so that was one enticement, but really it was this whole concept of a soupy pasta dish that intrigued me – one part tomato soup, one part mac cheese? Yes please. I was sorely disappointed to realize that this dish, though occasionally served without, included meat on the night we were there so I had to forgo it. I also peered over at my neighbors amazing-looking salad (the one here), knew I had to have it – but ended up ordering the wrong one!

Though our meal was not what we expected, it was still delicious (and a fantastic deal, something like €25 for both of us + wine!). Even though it was good, I knew that back stateside, the wrongs had to be right-ed and so here we have my bastardized versions of what I saw and dreamed of ordering at Nenella’s, . Whether it does the authentic thing justice or not, I don’t know but I think they are both delectable and hope you do too!

Pasta e Patate e Provola

• celery, 2 stalks diced
• 1 large carrot, diced
• 3/4 an onion, diced
• 1 medium yellow potato, diced
• one 14oz tin of cherry tomatoes
• basil
• water, 2.5-4 cups
• 1 cup shredded parmesan
• provolone 3/4 cup
• 3 different types of pasta – I use lasagne torn up into spoon size bits, fideo (or broken up cappellini), and orzo or ditalini. 2 sheets of lasagna, a cup of fideo, a cup of orzo, ditalini, or gamelli

Start by sauteeing your celery, onion, and carrot. Then add the tin of tomatoes and diced potato. Cook until the tomato is absorbed, starting to stick to pan and then stir in 3 cups of water a bit at a time along with a half a cup of parmesan, and simmer away until potato is cooked. Mash half of your mixture with a masher or fork in the pan. Stir in your pasta and add a bit more water if it looks like it needs it and then cover. When pasta is finished stir in the remaining parmesan and provolone.

Nennella's Salad

• baby yellow potatoes, 1lb, cut in half
• 2 big handfuls of green beans, ends trimmed, cut into 2in pieces
• raddichio, half a head, sliced
• whole green olives (spring for quality here plz – lucques are my fave), half a cup
• Dressing
  • 3 tbs olive oil
  • 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 1/2 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1/2 tsp, basil chopped
  • 1/2 tsp oregano
  • 1/2 tsp parsley
  • 1 garlic clove minced
  • salt to taste

Boil your potatoes, and blanche your green beans (3-5 mins then plunged into cold water). Shred your radicchio into long strips, and then toss together with everything else. FINI – delicioso